"Kopitiam has returned as a major trend—a beloved spot for coffee and relaxation popular among diverse demographics. Discover the compelling reasons behind this cultural revival. Scroll down to find out more."
Lately, there has been a notable surge in culinary destinations that evoke the ambiance of old Chinatowns, branded as Kopitiams. Characterized by oriental, Eastern-themed branding and complementary decor, these establishments strongly convey a cozy, homely impression. Their menus are faithfully adopted from the Kopitiam traditions brought by immigrants from the ‘Land of the Bamboo Curtain.’
A Rich History of Migration and Fusion
The Kopitiam eating concept was first documented in Malaysia in the 1800s, coinciding with the migration era of the Hainanese people from Hainan Island, China. Chinese sojourners—including those of Cantonese, Teochew, and Hokkien dialects—had settled in Malaysia for trade, farming, and mining. Driven by similar goals, the Hainanese also arrived, with many choosing to purchase property and open small restaurants across the country.
According to academic Gaik Cheng Koo in her discourse, "Kopitiam: Discursive Cosmopolitan Spaces and National Identity in Malaysian Culture and Media," early Kopitiam owners in Malaysia often leased out parts of their shops to food vendors, while retaining the monopoly on beverage sales.
A parallel phenomenon occurred in Singapore as Chinese immigrants began working on British-owned ships or in European households, leading to a rich cultural exchange. The Kopitiam emerged as a new culinary movement, born from adapting Western-style breakfast staples and seamlessly blending them with local customs. Kopitiam quickly became the preferred choice for affordable dining in Singapore. It was, and still is, a common sight to see patrons relaxing, perhaps playing chess, while leisurely sipping a cup of coffee.
Shifting to Indonesia, the Kopitiam arrived with a strong influence from its neighboring countries. In islands bordering Malaysia, such as Bangka Belitung and Riau, numerous coffee stalls owned by the Chinese community flourished.
Photo by Jonas Jacobsson on Unsplash
The Modern Comeback: Why Kopitiam is Resurgent
Despite having operated for a long time on islands outside Java, the Kopitiam has recently experienced a nationwide spike in popularity and a dramatic revival. The core attraction is the nostalgic branding—complete with old-house layouts and the strong presence of Chinatow-esque traditional ornaments. Why is the Kopitiam returning to prominence just as the 'kekinian' (contemporary) coffee trend begins to wane?
1. A Palate-Pleasing Flavor Profile
The mainstays of a Kopitiam menu are typically coffee, toast, and half-cooked eggs. Beyond this classic trio, Kopitiams often feature creative fusion dishes spanning Indonesian, Chinese, and Malay influences. The flavors from these three regions are inherently close to the Nusantara (archipelagic) palate, encouraging patrons to be more adventurous and explore the diverse offerings.
2. Simplicity and a Sense of Community
More than just nostalgia, the homely interior of a Kopitiam is proven to make people comfortable enough to linger and socialize. This atmosphere of simplicity and warm familial bonds acts as a major magnet, closely associated with the Kopitiam's friendly and welcoming ethos.
3. Universally Accessible Coffee
The coffee at a Kopitiam is neither artisan nor specialty—it is as straightforward as its nostalgic setting. Most Kopitiams opt for the more common and familiar Arabica variety. Uniquely, many establishments roast the beans with sugar and butter in a hot wok before brewing to achieve that distinct Kopitiam taste. This basic brew forms the foundation for a range of drinks, from black coffee and milk coffee to iced coffee creations.
The enduring popularity of the Kopitiam proves that Indonesia's culinary heritage is constantly evolving while remaining deeply intertwined with nostalgia. These two elements work in tandem, creating a rich and diverse culinary landscape that is integral to the daily lives of the Indonesian people.
